Kenya is one of the most celebrated coffee origins on the African continent, narrowly overshadowed in specialty coffee discourse only by Ethiopia, which is fair given the latter nation’s headstart — not only is it believed to be the birthplace of coffee as we know it, Europe also started importing coffee from Ethiopia in the 1600s, whereas coffee production in Kenya only began at the turn of the 20th century. This makes it all the more impressive that Kenya has managed to grab such a firm hold of the collective coffee consciousness, and its coffees today are renowned for their sweet fruity/berry flavours and bright acidity. 

The quality of Kenya’s coffee is a direct reflection of the dedication and expertise of the East African nation’s farmers and producers, as well as the Kenyan coffee industry’s culture of rigorous quality control. Once harvested and processed, Kenyan coffees are subjected to a precise screening and grading process according to bean size (which is thought to be tied to quality), and then sent to a weekly auction managed by the Nairobi Coffee Exchange (NCE). These auctions are highly competitive, largely ensuring that only the highest quality lots eventually make their way to consumers globally.

This particular lot is of the AB category, which accounts for about a third of all Kenyan coffees and can be particularly complex and flavourful, especially when roasted by experts like our friends Rosetta. It comes from Kenya’s central Nyeri region, the climate, high altitudes and rich, volcanic soil (courtesy of the nearby Mt Kenya) of which make it an ideal coffee-growing region. 

Like most Kenyan coffee, this lot is the combined effort of numerous smallholding farmers organised into the Gathaithi Farmers’ Cooperative. It was processed at the coop’s own eponymous washing station, which serves around 1600 Nyeri coffee farmers. Coops like Gathaithi enable farmers to pool their material and educational resources, and makes it possible for them to access vital industry infrastructure like washing mills and the NCE. This improves the efficiency of the Kenyan coffee industry as a whole, raising the quality of its crop and making it easier for farmers to sustain and uplift themselves and their communities. 

Rosetta Roastery's notes

• Style: Progressive
• Flavour profile: Bright, cranberry liqueur, rooibos, treacle

“...a complex and vibrant character, which shines through best when enjoyed as a filter brew. To fully unlock this Kenyan coffee’s potential, we kickstart the roast with a high charge temperature and gas setting, allowing thorough heat penetration for these large beans. A shorter roast time preserves their inherent fruitiness, contributing to a clean, balanced profile with a smooth, satisfying mouthfeel and a lingering brown sugar finish.”

Coffee details from Rosetta

• Altitude: 1450 masl
• Processing: Washed
• Varieties: Ruiru 11, SL-34, SL-28, Batian
• Country: Kenya
• Region: Nyeri County
• Producers: Smallholder farmers of the Gathaithi Farmers’ Cooperative
• Harvest: 2024