Rwanda has become one of the most stable countries on the African continent in the years following the devastating 1994 genocide. The Rwandan economy has seen an average annual growth of 7%-8% since 2003, which reflects the nation’s ongoing commitment to regeneration and progress. This growth is owed in part to Rwanda’s coffee sector, which is strongly supported by the Rwandan government, international investment, and effective trade rules focused on exporting.

This is the second Rwandan lot this year that our friends at Origin Coffee Roasting have sourced and roasted, and it comes via the same Rwandan coffee cooperative as before: Muraho Trading Company. MTCo. was founded by brothers Karthick and Gaudam Anbalagan who initially set out with one goal in mind: to elevate Rwanda’s coffee on the world stage and, in doing so, showcase the beautiful country it comes from and the people who live and work there.

Muraho began by setting up the first of its washing stations, Kilimbi washing station, in 2016. Now it manages six washing stations throughout Rwanda, each of which support their local coffee-growing communities by, making it easier for them to deliver and have their crops processed, and by securing them buyers and offering better payment terms than were available in the past. 

Like most Rwandan coffee, this lot is of the famed Red Bourbon variety. Red Bourbon is especially well-suited to the high altitudes of Rwanda’s mountainous regions, and one can often expect it to offer plenty of jammy fruit notes and a bright acidity in the cup. It is also a washed coffee, meaning that the skin and fruit was removed entirely prior to the drying stage of processing. The upshot is that the fruit notes typically associated with Red Bourbon and Rwandan coffee may not be as bold or sweet as in a natural coffee, but will come through with greater clarity in the cup. 

Phaedon's tasting notes

I remember the first Gisheke lot I tasted very well, despite it being the better part of a decade since that experience. It was Neil Gouws' competition coffee and it wasn't quite like any Rwandan I'd tasted before. Admittedly, at that time, I'd never tasted a Rwandan natural before. Since then, I've tasted many more, but it seems that Gisheke lots are still pretty unique.

What struck me first about this Gisheke is its sheer weight. There are 250g of beans in the bag, but the weight on the palate is many multiples of that. There are heavy, warm spice flavours, a lingering mouthfeel, an almost a waxy texture, and a treacly sweetness, which my friends at Origin may have more accurately described as molasses. Whoomph.

At the risk of offering my most esoteric flavour note ever, I remember trying a pint of Guinness stout with a bit of blackcurrant syrup in it on a trip to Ireland at some point in the late 90s. I think they do that for the tourists only. It was pretty tasty though, and somehow this coffee brought that back up in my memory banks. It's probably because of that weight, and this hint of dried fruit I picked up in some cups. What an experience.

Origin’s notes

• Flavour: Mandarin, orange ice tea, dried apricot, cloves, plums, molasses
• Body: Light
• Roast: Medium-light
• Acidity: Winey
• Suggested brewing methods: AeroPress, siphon, plunger, espresso and milk, v60

Coffee details from Origin

• Country: Rwanda
• District: Nyamasheke
• Farm: Gisheke
• Altitude: 1650 - 1850 masl
• Variety: Red Bourbon
• Processing: Washed and sundried

“Muraho Trading Company (MTCo.) is the brainchild of two brothers who were raised to call Rwanda home. They are driven to showcase to the world what Rwandan speciality coffee is all about. However, not only the coffee but more importantly the people and country that have given us so much. Rwanda has come very far from the horrific genocide against the Tutsi that took place in 1994 to the striving country it is today. This unbelievable turnaround is a huge credit to the Rwandese people and signifies the true meaning of HOPE to the rest of the world.

“Gisheke is the newest member of the MTCo family. Located in Nyamasheke District, the station overlooks Lake Kivu, with almost 40% of the cherries received at Gisheke coming by boat from Mushungwe Island. All the cherries from the neighbouring islands are delivered by boat to Gisheke, which is only accessible by water.”