Kenya is one of the most celebrated coffee origins on the African continent, narrowly overshadowed in specialty coffee discourse only by Ethiopia, which is fair given the latter nation’s headstart — not only is it believed to be the birthplace of coffee as we know it, Europe also started importing coffee from Ethiopia in the 1600s, whereas coffee production in Kenya only began at the turn of the 20th century. This makes it all the more impressive that Kenya has managed to grab such a firm hold of the collective coffee consciousness, and its coffees today, particularly washed lots like this one, are renowned for their sweet fruity/berry flavours and bright acidity.

The quality of Kenya’s coffee is a direct reflection of the dedication and expertise of the East African nation’s farmers and producers, as well as the Kenyan coffee industry’s culture of rigorous quality control. Once harvested and processed, Kenyan coffees are subjected to a precise screening and grading process according to bean size (which is thought to be tied to quality), and then sent to a weekly auction managed by the Nairobi Coffee Exchange (NCE). These auctions are highly competitive, largely ensuring that only the highest quality lots eventually make their way to consumers globally.

This particular lot, roasted by our friends at Origin Coffee Roasting, comes from the 145 hectare Gulmarg Estate located in Kiambu, a South-Eastern region just North of Nairobi. Between its high altitudes, equatorial climate and rich, semi-volcanic soil, Kiambu boasts all of the terroir features necessary for growing high-quality (read: delicious) specialty coffee.

Established by British colonists in the early 20th century, Gulmarg is today owned by Sasini PLC, a majority Kenyan-owned agribusiness. Sasini’s landing page states that the company’s success depends on working harmoniously with the surrounding communities and environment. Between its 6 estates, each equipped with its own processing facility, Sasini’s output accounts for around a fifth of Kenya’s total coffee production.

Sasini has long placed an emphasis on sustainability and the quality of life of its workers. According to green coffee exporter Covoya, Sasini provides its estate workers with “living quarters, early child education, union membership and guaranteed payment above minimum wage.” In the particular case of Gulmarg Estate, Sasini has funnelled investment into the local primary school, Njenga Karume, primarily in the form of a new, fully-fitted computer lab. 

Origin’s notes

• Flavour: Citrus fruit, lemon cake, winey
• Body: Medium
• Acidity: Winey
• Roast: Medium
• Suggested brewing methods: Siphon, V60, AeroPress, espresso, milk-based drinks

Coffee details from Origin

• Country: Kenya
• Region: Kiambu County
• Owners: Sasini, a publicly listed company with a majority Kenyan ownership
• Altitude: 1,950 masl 
• Variety: SL28, SL34
• Processing: Washed