Specialty coffee from Kenya has long enjoyed a reputation for being expressive and full-bodied. Historically, washed process Kenyans have been a favourite here at Cape Coffee Beans, and thanks to modern innovations in Kenya’s agricultural and trade industries, we get to see these lots well-represented on today’s specialty coffee menus in South Africa and around the world.

This lightly roasted single origin African coffee was processed at the Gichathaini Mill, owned and operated by the Gikanda Farmer’s Cooperative Society. The mill receives cherries from 895 smallholder farmers who grow SL28 and SL34 varieties, along with Batian. An intensively selective sorting process means only dense, ripe cherries are accepted and pulped before being fermented and washed. Kenyan green coffee is graded according to size, not quality. Whilst many reflexively go for the bigger AA lots, combining A and B size green beans often results in premium cups, thanks to the work of excellent roasters like Cedar.

Phaedon's tasting notes

We seem to be inundated with fantastic examples of Kenyan washed coffees these day, which makes me very happy. For some years, there had been a veritable dearth of this type of lot that I remember so fondly from the early days of CCB. This particular washed Kenyan lot is a good reminder that there is plenty of variety in flavour profile amongst Kenya's specialty coffee exports. I wouldn't call it in the least bit archetypal, but it is still very tasty.

Rather than offering a bright, tart acidity, as one might expect, this coffee's acidity is much more subdued and balanced. The cup profile offers plenty of body, and a brown sugar sweetness, with those pleasant notes of caramelisation that so many coffee lovers enjoy. While I found it offered a balanced cup in pretty much every brew method, I particularly enjoyed my siphon brew.

Cedar’s notes

“This Kenyan release is a classic expression of the region, showing the bright, juicy acidity we look for, paired with light sweetness and plenty of citrus and stone fruit character. It’s a coffee that feels vibrant and refreshing, offering clarity and energy rather than heaviness, something we always enjoy when working with washed Kenyan lots.

"In tasting, this coffee took some time to dial in as we worked to find the right balance. On espresso, we found bright grapefruit and stone fruit notes, with a lively acidity leading the cup. On filter, the profile is lighter and more delicate, still showing citrus and stone fruit, particularly nectarine, with a gentle, subtle sweetness that keeps the cup clean and refreshing. In milk, the acidity softens, giving way to a warm biscotti note that adds a comforting finish.”

• Cup Profile: Grapefruit, Nectarines, Biscotti

Coffee details from Cedar

“Gichathaini Factory is located in Mathira, Nyeri County, one of Kenya’s most well-known coffee growing areas. The region sits high on the slopes of Mount Kenya, where cool temperatures and rich red volcanic soils create ideal conditions for slow cherry development. Coffee here is grown primarily between 1,600 and 1,900 meters above sea level, contributing to the structure and brightness that Nyeri coffees are known for."

• Farm/Producer: Gichathaini Washing Station
• Region: Nyeri, Mathira
• Country: Kenya 
• Process: Washed
• Altitude: 1600 - 1900 masl
• Variety: SL28, SL34, Batian