It's been a real pleasure to see the sudden re-emergence of Kenya on specialty coffee menus around Cape Town. We see it as an added bonus that many of these lots hitting our shelves are of the traditional washed variety rather than alternative processes. In some ways, it feels like a return to our roots, as washed Kenyan coffees were always among the highlights of the year in the early days of Cape Coffee Beans. Many factors are driving the return of these Kenyan coffees: better growing conditions in Kenya, different market conditions and better distribution channels, among other things. We're happy to see these things come together to give us the opportunity to taste coffees like this one.

This particular lot is a fantastic example of Kenyan specialty coffee at its best. Our friends at Cedar liked it so much that they chose it to use at the recent South African Barista Championships. We think that if you taste it, you will understand why. Grown at a high altitude (as most Kenyan coffees are) and comprised of SL28 and Batian, this coffee has many of the trappings of high-end Kenyan coffee. Among these is the fact that it is an AA lot; this is the largest screen-grading size which often fetches the highest prices at auction. Kenyan AA lots are sought-after the world over because of their flavour potential.

Phaedon's tasting notes

While this is a delicious example of Kenyan washed coffee at its best, I would venture to say that its flavour profile isn't entirely archetypal. Rather than having that winey or blackberry acidity that the country's lots are known for, this one is decidedly more citrusy. There is a real zesty quality, accompanied by quite a bit of sweetness which combines to create an effect a bit like a boiled lemon sweet in my espresso-style brews. Have you ever tried a Napoleon candy? That's what it reminded me of.

In my immersion brews, the cup profile was much more jammy with the stone fruit flavours coming to the fore, and perhaps a little more balance between body and brightness. My French press, specifically, reminded me of marmalade, perhaps even with a hint of quince. My siphon brew, on the other hand, reminded me of apricot jam.

It's easy to understand why our friends at Cedar though this coffee was competition-worthy. I'm pretty sure if you taste it that you will agree.

Cedar's notes

"We're back with another exceptional lot from Kenya: Kathande AA. This coffee immediately caught our attention with its exceptional clarity and lively, complex acidity. If you had been paying attention, you would notice that we actually showcased this coffee at this year's National Barista Competition. A few of you might have already experienced this gem. It's the kind of coffee that reminds us why Kenyan coffees hold such a revered place in this industry.

"In the cup, we picked up lots of different stone fruit notes—think peach, red plum, nectarines, so much so that we couldn't decide what to place on the bag. On filter, you get this delicate cup, almost tea-like, with soft stone fruit notes. The espresso had this juicy, fresh orange acidity with a molasses sweetness. On milk, we picked up some sweet spicy notes of cinnamon as well as caramelised sugar. To sum it up, we would say the milk drink tastes like eating a gingerbread biscuit."

• Cup profile: Orange, stone fruits, gingerbread

Coffee details from Cedar

"Kathande Coffee Factory, established in 1979, is part of the Kagaari North Farmers' Cooperative Society and sits at 1,800–1,900 masl in Kagaari North Ward, Kianjokoma, Embu County. The factory works with 536 active members who farm small plots near their homes, planting 500–1,500 coffee trees per hectare. With fertile volcanic soils, ideal altitude, and a dedication to quality guided by values of openness, honesty, social responsibility, and integrity, the cooperative consistently produces coffees that compete on the global stage.

"Processing at Kathande follows the classic Kenyan fully washed method, with an added twist of a two-stage fermentation. Ripe cherries are pulped, then undergo a 20–24 hour fermentation, washed, and fermented again for another 20 hours. This double fermentation develops layers of flavour and complexity before the coffee is washed again, graded in channels, and dried on raised African beds. The result is a coffee with bright acidity, cleanliness, and a juicy sweetness."

• Farm/producer: Kathande Washing Station
• Region: Kenya, Kagaari North, Embu County
• Country: Kenya
• Process: Washed
• Altitude: 1800 - 1900 masl
• Variety: Batian, SL28