Our friends at Cedar are no strangers to excellent lots of coffee from Panama. In fact, they just recently released the Ruiz Panama Geisha which is a phenomenal example of this rare Ethiopian variety that Panama is known for in specialty coffee circles. It was a Panamanian estate - Hacienda La Esmeralda - that brought Geisha to everyone’s attention early in the 21st century.

This may not be a Geisha lot, but it is still worthy of excitement. We actually think it offers an interesting opportunity to taste a more common variety of Arabica, Catuai, grown on a Panamanian terroir. Whether you realise it or not, you’ve almost definitely tasted Catuai before. It is typically grown in South American regions of around 900 to 1,000 metres above sea level (masl). This Panamanian lot, on the other hand, was grown at an altitude of 1,300 masl on the Vista Hermosa farm in the mountain town of Boquete, within the Chiriqui region of Panama. This higher altitude leads to a slower maturation of the coffee cherries than those grown in parts of Brazil or Colombia that you may have tasted before.

Mr Luján, the proprietor of Vista Hermosa selectively picks and naturally processes these lots in the sun which preserves the sugars inside each cherry during the dry fermentation. This method should yield a cup that is sweeter and more full-bodied than a washed lot from the same harvest.

Phaedon's tasting notes

I thoroughly enjoyed drinking this coffee and was particularly struck by the variety of flavours I experienced brewing it in different methods. Siphon and moka pot wound up being my favourites and in both of those brews, I tasted an intriguing combination of berry flavours and a smooth chocolate finish. I likened it to a berry chocolate mousse - yum.

It's not that often that my own notes differ so drastically from my friends at Cedar's but I think I attribute this to the mercurial nature of the coffee. There's actually a lot going on, but in broad strokes, it offers a nice balance of sweetness and acidity, a smooth mouthfeel and classic quality, as well as a bit of intrigue and fruit. I will also just add that sometimes one associated chocolate flavours with darker roasts and heavier bodies, but this one is not that. It's quite delicate and chocolatey in quite a refined way.

Cedar’s notes

“In the cup, this natural process shines with tropical fruit intensity and vibrant sweetness. On espresso, we picked up notes of papaya and red grape, giving the cup a juicy, fruit-forward profile. That red grape note carries through on filter, where some of us also found a subtle raisin-like sweetness. In milk, it transforms into something comforting and familiar, think of Marie Biscuits with a gentle, rounded sweetness."

• Cup profile: Papaya, Red Grape, Marie Biscuit

Coffee details from Cedar

“Cedar is particularly excited to showcase this lot from Mr. Luján in Boquete, Panama. A producer whose story perfectly aligns with our values of community and connection. One of the things we love most about sourcing coffees like this is the opportunity to discover new farms and independent farmers who are quietly producing exceptional coffees on a small scale. Working with such a small, family-run operation makes this coffee all the more special.

“Mr. Luján began growing coffee in 2010 after more than three decades in the retail grocery industry, where he founded and managed three grocery companies. Today, he manages two small farms in Boquete with his wife: Vista Hermosa and Tierra de Dios. Between the two farms, nine people are employed year-round, five of whom attend the local university, a reflection of his commitment to education and opportunity. Housing is provided for all full-time employees and their families.

“After selective handpicking, the cherries are sundried for 3–4 weeks and then rested for 2.5 months before milling. The coffee is stored in temperature-controlled warehouses and dehusked just before export, preserving all of its tropical character and depth.”

• Farm/Producer: Vista Hermosa, Lujan Family
• Country: Panama
• Region: Boquete, Chiriqui
• Process: Natural
• Altitude: 1,300 masl
• Variety: Catuai