One of the things we love most about Bean There is its commitment to directly sourcing and roasting exceptional coffees from across the African continent. It has forged meaningful, long-term relationships with producers, and pays above-market prices to ensure that the farming communities with whom they work are fairly compensated. Bean There strives to improve producer livelihoods through its focus on sustainability, ethical sourcing, and direct Fair Trade practices.

While the Joburg-based roaster's year-round lineup of 7 African single origins and 3 signature blends offers dependable quality, a new Olga's Reserve always causes a stir around Cape Coffee Beans HQ. Following last season's sorely missed Yirgacheffe Supernatural, this year's edition turns the spotlight toward a washed lot of Kenyan Peaberry from the Gondo coffee factory.

The latest Olga's Reserve was produced by smallholder farmers in Kenya's central highlands, in Murang'a County. Thanks to the region's rich volcanic soil and abundant rivers flowing from the slopes of Mount Kenya, classic coffee varieties like SL28 and SL34 thrive here. Cool high-altitude temperatures, particularly at night, cause the cherries to mature slowly, producing dense beans that yield some of the East African nation's most vibrant, fruit-forward cups.

Unlike typical coffee cherries that yield two flat-sided seeds, a small percentage of any harvest produces a solitary, round bean known as a peaberry. Small and spherical, these rare beans tumble easily inside the roasting drum, allowing for exceptionally uniform heat transfer. The result in the cup is clarity, balanced acidity, and vibrant sweetness.

Phaedon's tasting notes

Olga is back.

Kenya is back.

Washed coffee is back.

All of this makes me so happy.

When I was chatting about this new release to Waseem, the coffee guru at Bean There behind much of the sourcing and the roasting, the first thing I said was that, "this coffee reminds me of the coffees we used to get so excited about a decade ago before all these crazy fermented lots started arriving in South Africa." That pretty much sums it up.

I can't just leave it at that though. You see, a decade ago, in the early days of Cape Coffee Beans, many of the standout lots were simply washed African coffees, and some of the best were from Kenya. More recently, post-harvest processing has taken centre-stage and there's nothing wrong with that. Through experimental processing techniques, many producers have created incredible flavour profiles, but we mustn't neglect or forget the classics, and this is just such a lot.

Many in our local coffee community, including Waseem, are observing that something special's happening with the Kenyan lots we're enjoying over the last year. They are tasting noticeably better than they have for many years. What exactly happened with these harvests, we don't know, but there are too many examples for it to be a coincidence.

This particularly lovely peaberry lot from my friends in Johannesburg exemplifies this trend. It's clean, clear, and delicious, with incredible flavour definition. It's bursting with dark berry and stone fruit flavours, depending on your brew method and parameters. I also picked up a mouth-watering dark chocolate finish in some cups. And it's no slouch on body or flavour intensity; this is not your tea-like brew. This coffee has plenty of oomph, and it is incredibly enjoyable. Whatever your preferred brew method, grab a bag and savour it.

Notes from Bean There

• Flavour notes: This coffee has a rich dark berry aroma, complex flavours of grapefruit, blackcurrant, and black tea, and a crisp sparkling finish.

“Our philosophy of seeking the best in both coffee and people, was embodied by Olga “Polly” Robinson. She introduced her grandchildren, Jonathan and Sarah, to the wonderful world of coffee at an early age. This inspired them to start Bean There Coffee Company and share the world’s best coffee, while making a meaningful impact in the lives of the people who grow it. Through direct fair trade, we help these farmers empower their communities. In recognition of her unforgettable example, Olga’s Reserve is a carefully selected, rare, micro-lot coffee. It’s best enjoyed slowly, with a piece of chocolate, in peace and quiet, elegantly savouring every sip. Just as she did.”

Details from Bean There

“Established in 1998 in Mathioya District, Muranga County, Gondo Coffee Factory is operated by the New Kiriti Farmers Cooperative Society. The mill works with 727 local farmers who cultivate the varieties of SL28, SL34, Ruiru 11 and Batian at an average elevation of 1,900masl. This ‘top’ grade Peaberry is an exceptional example of how terroir and local expertise combine to deliver intensity and complexity in the cup.”

• Producer: 727 smallholder farmers organised under the New Kiriti Cooperative
• Country: Kenya
• Region: Mathioya District, Murang’a County
• Variety: Batian, Ruiru 11, SL28, SL34
• Process: Washed
• Altitude: 1,900m ASL

A portion of the proceeds of this exclusive coffee goes directly to benefit Kenyan small-scale farmers.