In recent years, Colombia's specialty coffee producers have led the global charge in experimental post-harvest processing. By trading traditional washed and natural sun-drying methods for hyper-controlled, multi-stage techniques, Colombia's producers are redefining what we can expect from a cup of coffee. Along with El Diviso and Las Flores, the Zarza Coffee project sits in what international green buyers have dubbed Colombia's “holy trinity” of exciting, new-wave producers. Managed by Jhonatan Gasca and his family, this coffee processing estate is tucked away high up in the Bruselas mountains of Huila.

While Zarza cultivates highly acclaimed lots of Geisha, Pink Bourbon, and Pacamara, this micro-lot features the rare Ethiopian Wush Wush landrace. It remains scarce due to its low agricultural yields; however, when carefully cultivated, it offers complexity and a delicate, tea-like structure. Under the expert care of the Gasca family, Wush Wush harvests are processed using two distinct pathways - an anaerobic natural, or a multi-stage anaerobic washed process. This is Cedar's second Zarza release this year, and now our favourite roasting duo from Woodstock have treated us to the latter, showcasing the variety through the lens of an intensive, submerged fermentation. Read Cedar's detailed process and tasting notes below.

Cedar's notes

“In the cup, we found a variety of tropical fruit notes on filter, think guava and kiwis. As espresso, the tropical notes are paired with vanilla, quite an aromatic cup. With milk, there is a softer feel with a light note of pink marshmallows.”

• Cup profile: Tropical fruits, vanilla, pink marshmallow

Coffee details from Cedar

“This is our third time working with Jhonatan Gasca and the Zarza project, and it’s been great to see the consistency in quality year on year. This is the first time we’ve brought in their Wush Wush varietal, something we were particularly interested in given the work they’ve been doing around both variety and processing.

“Zarza, based in Huila, has built a strong reputation for producing high-quality, detail-driven lots, with a focus on experimentation and careful execution. Coffees from this project have also started gaining recognition on competition stages, with lots from Zarza and producers like Jhonatan Gasca being used by baristas in competition routines, speaking to the clarity and character they’re able to achieve. Jhonatan is part of a newer generation of producers pushing that standard forward. Wush Wush, a variety with roots in Ethiopia, is still fairly rare in Colombia and is known for its lighter structure and more aromatic profile when processed well.

“For this lot, only fully ripe cherries are selected. The coffee undergoes 42 hours of anaerobic fermentation, with floaters removed early on. After depulping, it is then oxidised in baskets for 12 hours before moving into a submerged fermentation stage, starting with water at 60°C for 24 hours. The coffee is then dried on raised beds for 10 to 12 days. It’s a hands-on process, but one that results in a clean, expressive cup.”

• Country: Colombia
• Farm: Zarza
• Producer: Jhonatan Gasca
• Region: Bruselas, Huila
• Process: Anaerobic Washed
• Altitude: 1,800 masl
• Variety: Wush Wush