Kenyan coffees really can be quite special, and stand out even among other famous African coffee origins. This is in part due to Kenya’s superb growing conditions. Nyeri in particular, where this coffee was cultivated, offers the ideal environment for coffee production. Located in Kenya’s central highlands between Mount Kenya and the Aberdare Ranges, Nyeri boasts volcanic soils rich in minerals, and benefits from cooler temperatures thanks to its high altitude (some 1500 to 2000 meters above sea level). Cooler growing temperatures typically slow the coffee cherry’s ripening process, which allows the coffee plant to absorb more nutrients from the soil. This can lead to particularly bright and complex flavours in the eventual coffee bean.

Kenya’s amazing coffee is also thanks to the dedication of coffee workers throughout the Kenyan coffee supply chain. Kenyan coffee farmers and producers are famous for their agricultural expertise, as well as their rigorous processing and quality-control practices. Once harvested and processed, Kenyan coffees are subjected to a precise screening and quality grading, and then sent to a weekly auction managed by the Nairobi Coffee Exchange (NCE). These auctions are highly competitive, ensuring that only the highest quality lots eventually make their way to market, and that they are priced fairly. 

However, Kenya’s coffee industry has fallen on hard times in recent years. Due to a combination of climate change-fueled growing obstacles, high input costs, and delayed payments to farmers, Kenya’s coffee output has shrunk from 128 000 metric tonnes in 1989 to 34 500 metric tonnes in 2020-2024, and there aren’t yet many sure signs of a turnaround. This, at least in part, explains why we don't see as many Kenyan specialty lots, like this one, on the South African market these days. That makes the opportunity to taste this one all the more exciting.

Phaedon's tasting notes

Back in the day when anaerobic fermentations and funky processes weren't a thing, do you know what was a thing? Washed Kenyan coffee - that's what. A high-quality washed Kenyan coffee like this one was one of the things we all used to get really excited about in the early days of CCB. They're much more of a rarity these days, both due to cost and lower supply, not to mention the appetite for experimental processing methods, but this coffee reminds me of what we were all so excited about in the good ol' days. It's classic.

Comprised of those quintessential Kenyan varieties - SL28 & SL34 - this coffee has those jammy, fruity and bright characteristics that archetypal Kenyan coffees are known for. I found these qualities were at their most enjoyable in immersion methods like my siphon and French press, but I have no doubt you'll make great cups whatever your preferred brewing implements.

I definitely picked up some ripe citrus notes specifically, as well as some hints of berry, but I also found stone fruit notes like peach and apricot in my immersion brews, whereas my AeroPress offered that Kenyan flavour note I'd almost forgotten about: tomato soup! This may be a me-thing, but I do remember often finding that note in classic Kenyan coffees.

Cedar’s notes

“This coffee offers a classic profile with vibrant flavours. You'll discover prominent and tangy notes of blood orange that shine through in both filter and espresso brewing methods. Subtle hints of blackcurrant add depth and complexity to the coffee's flavour profile. The vibrant acidity is lively and refreshing, while the light body makes it perfect for those who prefer a cleaner, more nuanced taste experience. When milk is added, delightful crunchie biscuit notes emerge, complementing the coffee's sweetness.”

• Cup profile: Blood orange, blackcurrant, crunchie

Coffee details from Cedar

“We got some exciting Kenyan coffees to share with you this 2025. First up is our Ruarai AB sourced from the renowned Nyeri region in Kenya, known for producing high-quality coffee with intense, complex, and flavour-dense cup profiles. The coffee is grown by smallholder farmers of the Ruthaka Farmers Cooperative Society, who meticulously cultivate and harvest their coffee cherries. Ruarai Factory collects cherries from approximately 600 smallholder farmers, each tending to around 0.4 hectares of coffee, with the factory's proximity to the Ruarai River ensuring a steady supply of clean water for processing.

The coffee undergoes a meticulous processing method, starting with dry fermentation for 16-24 hours after pulping, followed by washing and grading by density in channels, and then soaking in clean water from the Gatomboya stream for 16-18 hours. Finally, the coffee is sun-dried on African drying beds for up to 21 days. This process brings out the unique flavour profile of Ruarai AB, which boasts vibrant and complex notes.”

• Farm/producer: Ruarai Washing Station
• Region: Nyeri
• Country: Kenya
• Process: Washed
• Altitude: 1783 masl
• Variety: SL28, SL34