Despite being less frequently seen or mentioned than origins like Colombia, Ethiopia or Kenya, Panama occupies a unique place in the specialty coffee zeitgeist for one reason in particular: Geisha. Though this coveted coffee variety was first discovered in Ethiopia, it was in Panama in the early ‘00s that its incredible flavour potential was first truly discovered and it began its rapid ascent into celebrity status. Since then, Panama has become almost synonymous with the Geisha variety in the minds of coffee enthusiasts.

That said, this Panamanian lot, one of two brought to us by our friends at Cedar (a first for them!), is not of the Geisha variety. Cedar has deliberately decided against bringing in a Panamanian Geisha, instead opting to highlight some of the other spectacular coffee produced on the Central American isthmus. This particular coffee is an anaerobic natural lot of the Catuai variety, provided by K&R Specialty Coffee.

K&R is a family-run Panamanian green coffee exporter whose stated purpose is to promote the specialty coffee of the Boquete region, the best-known of Panama’s three coffee growing regions. K&R strives to provide high-quality specialty Panamanian coffee to roasters around the world year-round, and is dedicated to “making the [Panamanian] specialty coffee industry a sustainable operation that generates wealth in the community.” 

K&R maintains a close relationship with its partnered farmers, all of whom contribute collectively to many of its lots, and provides them with the resources and facilities to ensure the consistent production and export of fantastic Panamanian coffee. 

Anaerobic processing is a relatively new experimental coffee processing technique that involves placing coffee cherries in large, airtight containers with water. These are then sealed, and the coffee cherry inside is left to ferment for 2 to 3 days before being removed and left to dry with the skin and flesh still intact. This can result in exotic and complex flavours developing in the bean, such as bold fruit notes and a wine-like acidity.

Cedar’s notes

“We picked up constant notes of citrus throughout the brews with a prominent note of red apple, especially on filter. The espresso transformed into deeper stewed fruits reminiscent of a Safari fruit-roll. The milk was quite tame, with notes of sweet shortbread and key-lime pie. [We prefer] this coffee black.”

• Cup profile: Red apple, fruit roll, shortbread

Coffee details from Cedar

• Farm/Producer: Augustus Estate
• Exporter: K&R Specialty Coffee, owned and operated by the Ruiz family
• Country: Panama
• Region: Alto Jaramillo, Boquete, Chiriqui
• Process: Anaerobic natural
• Altitude: 1500 masl
• Variety: Catuai