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This coffee was grown on a family-run farm in rural Colombia. Each part of the family manages its own small plot but they process their coffee together at the farm's mill. The small scale operation was identified some years by Pedro Echavarria, an entrepreneur who runs both a coffee farm (Santa Barbara) and a chain of specialty cafes (Pergamino) in Colombia.
Pergamino buys a large portion of the family's crops, but also advises them and supports them in identifying particularly high-quality microlots which are sold and marketed under the family's name. This is just such a lot, and we feel privileged to have the opportunity to try it.
Phaedon's tasting notes
In a world of specialty coffee where we've grown accustomed to wild, fruity flavours and all kinds of extended, anaerobic and experimental approaches to processing and fermentation, it's sometimes quite refreshing to taste a coffee that was processed in a more traditional style. This is just such a coffee, and while the flavours in the cup are definitely not wild, they are thoroughly satisfying, balanced and enjoyable.
I enjoyed this coffee most in larger batch brews, whether that was my trusty Moccamaster or my Chemex. I also really loved it in the French press. The most noticeable characteristic in all of these brew methods was the acidity. It has a wine-like quality, but it also reminded me of citrus. It almost has a textured quality on the palate.
The coffee also offers a decent amount of sweetness, but I wouldn't call it very sweet. There was even a hint of a savoury, herbal flavour as it cooled which offered an interesting contrast.
- Flavour: Caramel, Rosehip, Tobacco, Spice, Slight wineyness, Dark chocolate finish
- Body: Sugar syrup
- Roast: Light-medium
- Acidity: Medium, Plum
- Suggested brewing: Pourover, Plunger, Siphon, Moka pot, Aeropress
When her husband passed away over a decade ago, Isuara Martinez wasn’t quite sure what she was going to do about maintaining the family’s 6-hectare coffee farm, located in the prime coffee-growing land in the sub-municipality of Tabor in Inza, Cauca. She, herself, was already in her 50s and wasn’t up to all the work required to continue farming high-quality coffee. In a development unusual in rural Colombia today, where small farms are increasingly subdivided into ever smaller parcels as they are passed onto the children of a farm’s owner, Doña Isaura's children decided to help manage their family’s farm collectively.
Some 10 years on, Familia Gomez is a nice example of how coffee growing can be passed on through generations in rural Colombia. Currently, four brothers and sisters and their families (last name Gomez, after their father) manage the farm, and Doña Isuara manages her own small plot, despite her current age of over 65.
- Farm: Finca Argentina
- Owner: Familia Gomez
- Varietals: 100% Caturra
- Processing: 24hr fermentation & dried on parabolic beds
- Altitude: 1,990 masl
- Town/City: Tabor
- Region: Inza, Cauca
- Country: Colombia